Tuesday, July 30, 2013

A different plane

This is a write-up of a day from early June when I was on holiday on Skye; a favourite place.

It may come as a surprise to some people but cycling is not my only sporting passion. I love golf and before that I used to be a little obsessed with hillwalking and climbing. Somewhere in between the last two lurks scrambling. This is essentially very easy rock climbing where normally you don't bother roping up. So it tends to be quicker but still has a great air of excitement about it. For me it allows access to some great places that walkers can't really reach and satisfies the rock climbing itch that still exists.

In Britain there's one range of hills that are tailor made for scrambling on; the Black Cuillin on Skye. They are vary different from anything else in Britain the rock is fantastic for climbing on. The one downside is that the hills are still evolving, often rather fast which leads to some loose rock. you just have to be careful.

There was a time when the Significant Other was roped (no pun intended) into scrambling on these hills and I did the route finding and the worrying. For one reason and another a few years ago I ended up employing one of the mountain guides on Skye to do some of the more "pointy bits", which in truth the SO wasn't really interested in. Without going over old ground Paddy McGuire ignited some more passion in me for this type of activity and in the last few years I've been re-employing him for more fun in the hills.

So here we were meeting at the Sligachan Hotel on a Sunday morning in June looking at a beautiful blue sky with a day's climbing in front of us. As it my want I asked if we might attempt a thing called Amphitheatre Arete, one of the lesser requested routes from Paddy's clients. Paddy agreed and after a little drive around the corner we were soon walking up towards the cliffs of Sron na Ciche.

Walk In
Walking in

I was glad the walk in was short as it was already hot and even more glad to have picked this route as we should be in the shade for most of the climbing. I hadn't realised the one downside of this at this point but more of that later. We arrived at the start of the route quickly enough and I was surprised to see a number of other climbers on routes right beside ours and even some in the little gully we were going start up. We put harnesses and helmets on and Paddy got the rope out. It's always good to have some insurance and I was to find it very useful on this route. This is where the line between scrambling and rock climbing becomes blurred. Sections of this day were well within my comfort zone and we moved un-roped but others were places where I definitely liked the security of a rope and the experienced guide.

I was to find the security of the rope useful almost immediately. It's a funny thing, scrambling. There were moments in the day where the objective danger of a fall was far greater than from the first few feet of the gully we were in but about 10 feet of the ground I already felt nervous. I even began to wonder why I'd picked this route. Maybe Paddy did too as he passed the rope down. One reassuring point came from the party of 3 in front who also admitted to having to use the rope here when they hadn't planned on it.

With the rope attached the moves came more easily and soon we were moving upwards again without its assistance. After another little problem where I couldn't follow Paddy's route that we circumvented by something I preferred the look of but that hadn't looked obvious at first we arrived at the base of the Amphitheatre that the route is named after. And this is exactly was I was meaning earlier when I mentioned getting to less easily reached places. This Amphitheatre has been formed by two huge areas of steepening slabs in the middle of this huge rock face (around 1km in length and up to 300m high). And standing underneath it was amazing. To think I was going to climb up some of it and then across it before reaching the far edge (the arete) to climb to the top was even more amazing.

The first problem was that the access to the slabs we wanted to climb on was up a shallow groove that was seeping despite the dry weather Skye was experiencing. Not a route for a wet day I guess. We decided that it was dry enough but that I would use the rope's security again. So Paddy set off leaving me to watch the rope and to let him know when it ran out and I would need to climb. As the person going second, and the less experienced (by a long way), this is a nervous time. Here you are standing in the middle of a very large rock face without the ability to get off it without the person who is now some considerable distance from you. Even if that distance is only 50m! Paddy arranged a belay (a contrivance which allows him to secure the rope, and me, to the rock) and then I climbed up the groove. It was wet and it didn't seem easy though I really enjoyed the climbing. Regardless of how easy it would be to a proper rock climber I thought Paddy's ability to climb this without the protection I had was very impressive indeed.

A little more of wet slab above the groove deposited us on the main slabs. What a situation! Then we started across on our way to the edge. Easy at first the ledge we were following got narrower and because the hill side was getting lower below us I began to feel more exposed. I was very pleased with myself when I managed to make some dainty little moves across a small section that seemed to hang above the corrie floor. All without a rope. Here we started to work our way up a little too and then we arrived at the arete. Almost immediately I found myself in a position where I felt more nervous than I wanted to. Paddy suggested the rope and I was grateful to accept. Of course the payment for the upcoming security was the requirement to wait for Paddy to climb ahead and find his belay. The problem this time was that I hadn't picked the best spot for a rest. I was standing on two small footholds, very secure but it was not easy for me to move around. Try standing on two half bricks for any length of time to see what I mean. And, of course, I couldn't afford to fall off because I was trying to get more comfortable. I did my best to find a nice position and took some photos as I waited for the call to climb.

IMG_1699
The view from my stance

After what seemed an age (probably 10 minutes) I got my opportunity. The climbing was lovely but I was really, really glad of the rope. Even with it you get a little nervous because you don't want to fall, or even slip. And I want to climb nicely and in control to make my guide's day as easy as possible. I arrived at the belay and Paddy suggested another section where he would climb first. I wasn't unhappy with this. I had a nicer stance this time and enjoyed both the waiting and the subsequent climbing. It was also here that I realised the downside of climbing on a shady cliff. Every time I looked up (a requirement in climbing) I ended up looking straight into the sun. Oh, the fun.

The path
The path looks a long way down

After that we had a longer section where we could un-rope and we progressed together. One of the great things about these days out is the conversation. Wide ranging and almost constant the climbing flies by as you work your way ever upwards. It was a surprise to me when Paddy announced we had reached the crux of the route. Surprised because I knew from the route description that the crux was pretty much right at the top. And I wasn't ready for this adventure to be over yet.

The arete
Looking down the arete from below the crux

The crux consists of a large triangular block sitting right on top of the ridge. At the grade I climb at it isn't possible straight on but, luckily, there's a way around. It's an interesting way around though. You need to go round the right hand edge of the block where you suddenly find yourself above the long gully that defines the right hand side of the ridge. I was glad I was on the rope for this bit. You shuffle along a little until a very obvious foothold comes into view. The only problem is that it's a bit of a step up to get on to it and it takes a little bit of working out how to get all your limbs in the right place to achieve the step up. I also wondered what would happen if I had missed and come off. Not a pretty thought. A quick painful pendulum to the opposite wall of the gully was my guess. However, a little shimmy and there I was above the crux with a little more climbing to reach Paddy and relative safety.

That left a little more scrambling (more interesting than I thought it would be) to get to the flat top of Sron na Ciche and lunch. We picked a wee knoll on the south west side of the wide ridge that gave us a comfortable seat and great views out to Rum and beyond. I'm not sure I've seen better days in the Cuillin. Our day wasn't quite over as we needed to walk back down which always takes longer than you think it will. On this occasion though it was great just to soak of the views. I kept looking back at the cliff we'd climbed thinking "Really? I went up that!". That's an oft thought thought of mine on Skye.

IMG_1713
Looking back

Now I just can't wait to get back.

2 comments:

  1. Just as a matter of interest, what did you take the photos with? I can't see you having a DSLR swinging from your neck when you went up there :-)

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    1. Jim,

      You are correct I don't use the SLR. I have an old Canon PowerShot A530 courtesy of my Dad's estate. It's not the best camera but for this kind of stuff it does the job.

      One day I'll stop being a sissy and carry the SLR.

      I have been known to carry all my kit when just walking in the hills. It makes for one heavy rucksack.

      Thanks for commenting, and reading!

      Al.

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